As the publisher of this newspaper, I have, on multiple occasions, written or assigned stories on the City’s eatery grading procedures and the Health Department’s actions regarding the regulation of restaurants.

In February, I opened Nana’s Breakfast Nook with my partner, Mr. Joseph DeCandia, who also owns Lenny’s Clam Bar, a virtual institution on Cross Bay Boulevard. Since embarking on this business venture, I see things from an entirely different perspective–– that of a restaurant owner.

When I received a letter this week from Bruno Rinaldi, owner of Bruno Ristorante, I was reminded of the unique challenges that owning a restaurant presents – especially those that arise from the regular Health Department inspections.

Mr. Rinaldi’s letter, which can be seen in its entirety on Page 8 as a Letter to the Editor, is addressed to Health Commissioner Mary Bassett, M.D., and calls on her to drastically change her agency’s restaurant control procedures.

We stand in support of many of the issues that Mr. Rinaldi raises and join him in calling for these reforms. Not only for the obvious reasons, but because changes such as those suggested would really reinforce the true benefits that the letter-grading system could have if the grades represented what the public presumes they do.

Every restaurant owner goes to sleep at night either trying to figure how to get or to keep the elusive A in their window, but the bottom line is the achievement shouldn’t require anything more than following rules which mandate operating at the highest possible level. But the fact of the matter is that a restaurant can fail an inspection for things that have absolutely nothing to do with public safety and health.

A radical change to department procedures and personnel is required if the public is ever to see the true benefits of this type of regulation.

Mr. Rinaldi points to the fact that many inspectors simply aren’t qualified to perform inspections of restaurants where the cuisine requires intimate food knowledge. A perfect example is cheese: All cheese is not created equal. Why should a restaurant owner who pays upwards of $29 per pound for imported Parmigiano-Reggiano be forced to pack it in ice in front of an inspector just to avoid a violation,only to then be forced to throw it away because the last thing that should ever go near this precious wheel is ice. Inspectors need to be trained properly and should not be permitted to come crashing into someone’s business at the height of busy and make arbitrary, subjective decisions. One of the greatest plagues on the food-service industry, any restaurant owner will tell you, is the disparity among individual inspectors. Finding two in agreement is less likely than locating the proverbial needle in a haystack.

Mr. Rinaldi’s suggestions are a testament to more than 50 years’ of experience in the business and merit the attention of all restaurant owners. Now is the time for this powerful industry to band together and call for necessary, common-sense reforms.

Perhaps it’s time for owners to refuse to allow inspectors on premises until we are sure that the person who walks through the door toting that clipboard knows what they’re doing.

By Eugénie Bisulco

“The ending of this movie would be me winning the Golden Gloves and putting them around my brother’s neck,” said Michael Gonzalez, 29, of Woodhaven.

He’s been fighting – literally and figuratively – since he found himself in the hospital a few years ago, suffering from everything from bronchitis to diabetes. At 350 pounds, Gonzalez’s body was in trauma mode. He struggled with sleep apnea and asthma. A Russian doctor asked plainly, “Why are you so fat?” and warned him that he was destined to die if he continued along his current path.

Michael Gonzalez (l.) with his two brothers before his nearly 200-pound weight loss. Courtesy of Michael Gonzalez

“We were just slobs,” Gonzalez said of himself and his brother Danny, now a professional boxer with a record of 10-0.

It was the example set by Danny, who is younger, along with the haunting words of the Russian physician, that finally inspired Gonzalez to make some long-overdue changes. Having signed up for a gastric bypass, he was regimented to drinking only shakes for a month. Doing so caused him to lose 30 pounds, and thinking “I can do this,” he cancelled the impending surgery. Danny, then 17 and 220 pounds himself, made his brother get out and go running with him on a horse trail in Forest Park.

“Without him, I’m not sure where I’d be,” Gonzalez remarked solemnly. “But I definitely didn’t want to get left behind and lost in the park.”

The Golden Gloves – the ultimate award for amateur fighters, who make no money for their matches, and a starting point for many of the great champion professionals — dangled like carrots at a finish line that kept getting closer and closer while still seeming impossibly far away. Danny had spoken to a nutritionist and developed a diet and routine which he then shared with his brother. In the first year of his newfound strength and resilience, Gonzalez lost a whopping 150 pounds – a welterweight fighter’s worth in and of itself.  In the last four, he gradually and healthfully lost nearly 50 more, and his current fighting weight is 152.  His progress as a pugilist is also remarkable:  his record is 12-2.  The competition and the requirements have gotten steeper, as, among other differences, after an amateur’s first 10 fights, the rounds get lengthened from two minutes to three.

When Gonzalez isn’t competing or with his close-knit family, you can find him at Universal Boxing Gym in Ozone Park, training a number of other fighters as well as himself. Sitting atop a stool surrounded by boxing memorabilia, a lot of which celebrates his brother’s success, Gonzalez seemed undaunted by a recent loss in the ring – even more determined, in fact, to pursue the Gloves. That same resolve flamed his decision to get his youngest brother Steven, 19, on a track toward losing weight.  Now 159 pounds, Steven started at 200 before Michael began preparing his meals.

“He’s a grown man, but I want to do it for him, like Danny did for me.”

Gonzalez next fights on June 25 at Danbury War Memorial, just a hop, skip and left hook away in Connecticut. For more information regarding the event, or about amateur training opportunities in the area, contact Coach Moises Roman, Jr. at Universal Boxing.

eugenie@theforumnewsgroup.com

By Michael V. Cusenza

It’s a sun-splashed Sunday morning on Cross Bay; the boulevard a shell of its work-week self – more cars than clouds, the cerulean ceiling coaxing Howard Beach up and at ‘em.

And judging from the turnout and day’s reservation ledger at Nana’s Breakfast Nook, the nascent niche eatery that seems to have quickly caught the attention of all kinds of fans of the most important meal—weekend waffle warriors to poached egg enthusiasts, and everyone in between—on the ground, it’s the food that has coaxed the community into a restaurant that opened its doors two weeks ago.

Nana’s is a joint venture of two of Howard Beach’s most recognizable and respected names: Patricia Adams, publisher of The Forum, the neighborhood’s newspaper of record; and Joe DeCandia, Jr., owner and operator of boulevard anchors Lenny’s Clam Bar and Roma View Catering.

“It was a combination of things,” noted DeCandia when asked ‘Why Nana’s? Why now?’ “The area needed something different; high-end breakfast restaurants are a new, up-and-coming trend; we had the space, the kitchen—it was a no-brainer.”

Adams said the Nana’s seed sprouted in her mind a couple of years ago. It came down to recruiting the right co-star and finding a proper home.

“I floated the concept to [Joe],” she recalled. “And I knew that he had recently bought the property next-door to Lenny’s. It felt as if the pieces were falling into place one by one.”

DeCandia has more than 40 years of experience in the restaurant industry – a fickle, rough-and-tumble beast on its best days. However, having grown up in his father’s eateries, he seems to have seen it all; and the continued popularity of Lenny’s and Roma View is testament.

“[Pat] explained it to me, but I’ve got to admit I was a little hesitant in the beginning,” DeCandia related. To assuage his uncertainty, Adams took DeCandia on a tour of sorts, sampling the fare at niche spots from Brooklyn to Manhattan and even New Jersey.

“I liked it, and thought it could do well in the area,” he said, a smile slowly unfolding to life. “There are very few places doing quality breakfast. We’re one of them.”

Quality starts with ingredients and the menu, Adams said. So she worked on the nook’s book for months, and what emerged is a food list that is as unique as it is enticing, boasting monikers like “Eve Would Have Chosen This over the Apple” (prime ruby grapefruit rubbed in fresh ginger, crusted in dark Turbinado sugar and caramelized under flame); and “Will the Real French Toast Please Stand Up?” (sliced brioche soaked in our own egg custard and oven finished with bourbon vanilla; served with honeycomb butter and 100 percent maple or confectioners sugar).

“I had a lot of fun with it,” Adams admitted. “Lot of work, but the menu was fun.”

Nana’s has been in business just two weekends, yet talk of expanding – the menu, days of operation, the dining floor, the brand – is already on the table. However, Saturday, March 5, is all Adams and DeCandia are focused on at the moment.

“It looks like it’s already working,” DeCandia said. “Who knows? Maybe we’ll grow faster than we thought we would.”

His phone’s familiar ringtone cuts the last word short. The voice on the other end says a famished party of five is on its way.

A waiter begins to prep a large round table in the center of the room.

It’s Sunday at Nana’s.

michael@theforumnewsgroup.com

Nana’s Breakfast Nook

161-09 Cross Bay Blvd.

Howard Beach, NY 11414

(718) 309-0316

FULL DISCLOSURE: The publisher of this newspaper is also a co-owner of Nana’s Breakfast Nook.

By Eugénie Bisulco

Joe. Java. Brain Juice. Whatever you call coffee, whether you like it sweet and creamy or black and strong, whether to sip and chat over, or down quickly in an effort to wake up, few among us don’t at least occasionally enjoy a nice brimming cup every now and again. Or two. Or three.

Starbucks first opened in Seattle in 1971, and by the mid-1990s it had become a household name, with a shop on every block. For a while the megabucks company had all but usurped the rising market on American cafés. But now, with our healthier attitude as a nation and our increased awareness of the importance of exercise and nutrition, the growing popularity of this healthily beneficial nectar has caused competition from all corners – from smaller, more unique coffee-vending establishments to bigger-name commercial enterprises such as Dunkin’ Donuts and even McDonald’s. Because of all the competing efforts, the coffee just keeps getting better and better. With obsession can come perfection.

McDonald’s, whose coffee used to taste like a cross between ashes and mud, now has a top-of-the line list of offerings, from lattés to iced and even frozen coffee. And at McDonald’s, every size (regular) coffee you can buy is the same price. Who would choose a “small?” we wonder.

Indeed, large and multiple coffees are becoming ubiquitous in our daily drinking habits as a society, and with good reason: a whole host of health benefits can be reaped from drinking the aromatic brown liquid in moderate to large doses: including lowered risk of cancer, reducing depression, links to lessened heart strain, and even protecting the liver from too much drinking of a distinctly different kind of liquid – alcohol.

The two most common coffee bean species are the Arabica and the Robusta. Originally from Central and South America, Arabica is grown across the globe and makes up over seventy percent of all the coffee produced in the world. (This percentage would likely be higher, were the trees not so susceptible to disease). Depending on where the beans are grown, you might taste great differences among Arabica coffees. Ethiopian Arabica, for example, is notoriously smooth, while Arabica grown in neighboring Kenya are known for a more bitter taste. Robusta beans, on the other hand, grown primarily in Asia, are more inherently bitter due to their lesser oil content. They contain 50 percent more caffeine than Arabica beans do and are more likely to be included in blended cheaper coffees as well as expensive espressos.

With the shift in American culture, we’ve begun competing with the entire rest of the world for coffee (bean) production and brewing techniques, whereas at one point, Italy, Cuba, and even places like Turkey and India could boast of far better coffee. Coffee trees like water, constant humidity, and warm climates, so they are most often successfully grown in South America, Africa, and Asia – though as any coffee lover will tell you, Hawaiian-grown beans would give any foreigners a run for their money.

Kona, Sumatra, or Colombian – whatever variety one prefers, taste will inevitably develop with experience. Fortunately for us all, the quality and diversity of available coffee is so great these days that that experience will surely be a heady one.

However, sometimes skepticism is best set aside when circumstances dictate.

And so with six parties over the course of the last four years under my belt, I’m finally ready to come out of the Pampered Chef closet and say it: I’M ADDICTED.

Thankfully this is one addiction with a happy ending––this stuff is the real deal. From a simple scraper to a garlic slicer or a skillet, the amazing Rockcrock pot, or a hand powered food processor, this is a line of products that are fashioned from top quality material and offer a level of performance in the kitchen only rivaled by other giants in the cookware industry. And Pampered Chef has another outstanding feature: they stand 100 percent behind everything they sell. They even offer replacements on any defective merchandise for up to three years after original purchase!

And so with everyone’s most favorite time of the year to enter­tain and create culinary masterpieces to celebrate with family and friends, upon us, it’s a great opportunity to discover first hand, just how easy Pampered Chef can make your life around the kitchen. And of course it’s not just around the holidays that you will love Pampered Chef products, it’s all year long.

The recipes that we chose to share with you here are but three of dozens of delicious, restaurant-quality entrees, appetizers, desserts that you can create with ease. People will be after you for your secrets and praising you prowess in the kitchen with every bite.

That’s another thing we love about this line of goodies for food­ies, the connection doesn’t end with the purchase. There’s a constant flow of information on the products to use them to their fullest and also an endless supply of recipes and suggestions that just keep com­ing. Questions are readily fielded by your Pampered Chef rep and there is an absolute wealth of support and information online and through social media.

So whether you’re buying a gift for someone else or giving hints for your own Christmas desires, we’d like to leave you with some suggestions on what we consider in the line-up of Pampered Chef must haves:

1- The double grill pan. With a totally non-stick surface, this beauty will handle meat, fish, vegetables and anything else you can slice, dice, chop or shred. And by the way, if you suffer the pangs of missing your barbeque and grill marks on you rib eye when the tem­perature drops, this baby will do the job right from your cook top––totally without smoke. That’s right, the grill pan is totally smoke free.

2-The Rock Crock. There isn’t enough to say about this pot ex­cept that it’s equally as comfortable on the stove top, in the oven, on the grill or in the microwave. Produce foolproof delectable risotto, pasta and anything else you can fit in this must have vessel.

3- The salad chopper. Absolutely the most dependable, versatile cutter/scissor type tool you’ll ever find. This is a tool that will prove its worth over and over again.

4- The shallow baker, and actually any piece in the stoneware line, is a must have for anyone who likes to bake, roast vegetables or create delectable desserts. Don’t stop there, the possibilities are endless.

Take advantage this weekend at the Ave Maria Christmas Fair (see page 19) on Sunday Dec. 6 to meet Pampered Chef rep extraordinaire, Marielena Russo, and get your Pampered Chef col­lection started. Mention you read this in The Forum and start out with a free gift!

By Patricia Adams

pat@theforumnewsgroup.com

Queens Restaurant Week, a program of the Queens Tourism Council, is set this year for Oct. 12-23. More than 200 restaurants will participate in the 12^th annual event by offering prix fixe dinners and lunches, most of which will be $28 and $14, respectively, and will be three courses.

This week the annual event was kicked off at The Shops at Atlas Park in Glendale, where five eateries and Queens Brewery gave away free samples of their food and beverages to 300 attendees, most of whom happened by during a regular shopping trip. Some of the restaurants, such as Shiro of Japan, whose chef prepared tuna, salmon, and vegetarian sushi, gave out small portions, while others dished out full meals. Connolly’s Corner’s spread offered a full hot service, with catering trays full of lobster ravioli, calamari, roast beef, baked salmon, and ribs. Lines were wrapped around the outdoor Atlas Common area, particularly when Queens Brewery of Ridgewood started serving up full pints.

“Best beer in town!” shouted one dapper older gentleman, as lumberjack/hipster-looking founder Nelson Rockefeller (yes, his real name) chatted with the crowd. To Rockefeller’s credit, he stopped two underage women who were actually on line for the nearby Vintage Curry of Jamaica. The Curry shop, which just opened recently, gave out delicious chicken tikka, vegetable samosas, shish kebobs, and other traditional Indian dishes, though the menu also includes some Chinese food.

Rodis Santiago, 35, of Jamaica, didn’t know anything about Restaurant Week, but was shopping at the mall when someone told her to check out the kick-off. “If I like the food today, sure, I’ll try something during Restaurant Week,” she said.

Ashley Ortoneda, 19, of Maspeth, had never even seen Connolly’s Corner, but vowed to go after she tried the food. “It’s on Grand Avenue, so I can take my mom there,” she said. She was with her friend Shelby Gashi, 18.

“I’m definitely planning to go back to Connolly’s,” said Gashi. “I love the lobster ravioli.”

State Senator Joe Addabbo, Jr. (D-Howard Beach) dropped by to say a few words in support of Queens businesses. Forum Photo by Eugénie Bisulco

According to the Queens Tourism council, the Borough is “so cuisine heavy that diners need more than a week” to really take advantage of the promotion. (New York City Restaurant Week, a separate venture, lasted over three weeks this summer and featured more than 350 participating restaurants.)

State Senator Joe Addabbo, Jr. (D-Howard Beach) dropped by Monday’s kickoff to support local businesses and the Tourism Council, calling it a “win-win-win” for all involved.

Considering the significant savings the promotion offers to restaurant patrons, it’s certainly a win for them, if the food is good – and if they arrive hungry. At Connolly’s Corner, the Atlantic Salmon – one of the prix fixe entrée choices – would normally cost $21.95. During Restaurant Week, you can get that, plus an appetizer and dessert, for only $6 more.

Queens Restaurant Week will go from Oct. 12-23, though some restaurants are extending the sale. For a full list of participating establishments, go to itsinqueens.com/RestaurantWeek.

By Eugénie Bisulco   eugenie@theforumnewsgroup.com

But why spend $9 on unknown meat dried with unknown preservatives, when you can make your own healthier version, impress your friends, and learn a new skill for less?

Jerky can be made from any lean meat, and you don’t need a dehydrator to make it. If you’re choosing beef, most people go with brisket or flank steak, but other cuts will work; the key is to remove all visible fat before getting started. If you leave fat on, the jerky will spoil more quickly.

Just about any meat can be used to make jerky, but the leanest cuts should be selected and all visible fat trimmed off. Photo Courtesy of rachelent1, Flickr.com

Some jerky-makers use small, flattened slabs of meat two to three inches wide. The standard, most effective size to make your jerky is in thin strips (1/2”) less than 1/20” thick. The meat can be frozen beforehand for a few hours to make it easier to slice.

Some people opt to marinate the meat first for up to 24 hours, for enhanced flavor. Numerous marinade recipes can be found online, with liquid bases of vinegar, Worcestershire, pineapple juice, or beer. This is an optional step, as the additional moisture can make the dehydration process take longer. Asian-style jerky might have ginger or lime in the seasoning, while African jerky might have clove and cumin. Dried spices should be added as a rub right before dehydrating the meat. Don’t be afraid to experiment with seasoning combinations.

Space out the meat adequately on cooking spray-coated racks of a dehydrator. (Dehydrators start at around $40 for small ones and go up to around $200 for large professional ones. You can also build your own solar dehydrator…if you’re bored.) After two hours, the consistency of the jerky needs to be checked every thirty minutes. To do this, check a piece by cutting into it. The color should be like dark chocolate or prunes. Depending on the meat’s consistency, the process will take up to six hours.

If you don’t have a dehydrator, use an oven set to 165˚ F, just hot enough to destroy bacteria and allow the moisture to evaporate, but not so hot as to actually cook the jerky. In using an oven, the jerky should be placed on a wire rack with a tray underneath to catch drippings. Ovens cut your drying time exactly in half, with the process ranging from 1-3 hours. In this case, the jerky should be checked after 90 minutes, and then every 30 minutes thereafter.

The fresh jerky should be placed in airtight containers (like mason jars) or be vacuum-sealed, then put in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, or in the freezer.

You may be looking for a sweet follow-up to your spicy jerky. Ice pops — which are becoming more and more ubiquitous in hipster-run artisanal food shops — can be made quickly and easily in your own home using just about any ingredients you choose.   Looking for something creamy? Use avocado, banana, yogurt, or all three. Into the juicing trend? Make your own veggie juice and freeze it into a pop. If you don’t have pop molds, you can use paper cups or even a loaf pan. (As the mixture freezes, put in popsicle sticks, then slice the loaf like bread to serve the pops.) Get kids involved by asking them to select ingredients like fresh fruit chunks, or layer the pops (freezing one ingredient at a time) for a fun and colorful snack. Looking for more of an “adult” ice pop? Wine and beer freeze well (think: sangria pops for that Fourth of July party coming up), and liquor like Bailey’s and Kahlua will freeze in moderate amounts. The key is to blend ingredients well to avoid making pops laden with ice crystals.

As you prepare your own jerky and ice pops, the key is to enjoy the experience; always an ingredient in the best recipes, fun will make your creations even more delicious.

We’d like to hear from you! To share your jerky- or ice pop-making stories, email eugenie@theforumnews.com.

Home-made ice pops, like the peach and kiwi ones shown here, can be made with a variety of sweet, or even savory, ingredients such as fresh whole fruit and herbs. Photo Courtesy of Jennifer Chalt, Flickr.com

Sichuan-style beef jerky can be made easily in your own home, without a dehydrator. Don’t forget the Sriracha sauce! Photo Courtesy of Robin, Flickr.com

The Taste of Rockaway Beach event will feature 11 diverse restaurants. Courtesy HEART of Rockaway Beach

This Sunday, dining aficionados will get a chance to sample food from restaurants throughout Rockaway Beach, from tacos to Thai, for a fundraising event that will help to support neighborhood beautification projects for the area hit hard by Hurricane Sandy.

The Taste of Rockaway Beach, sponsored by the community advocacy group HEART of Rockaway Beach, will kick off at 12 p.m. on Sunday, May 4. The event, which will wrap up around 6 p.m., will feature 11 restaurants along Rockaway Beach Boulevard, from Beach 87th Street to Beach 102nd Street.

Uma’s owner Conrad Karl said the Taste of Rockaway Beach will help to raise money for community beautification projects. Photo by Anna Gustafson

“We want to market Rockaway Beach as a dining and entertainment destination,” said Conrad Karl, who owns Uma’s and is helping to organize the festivities celebrating a neighborhood that is reviving itself following the devastation wrought by Hurricane Sandy.

A $10 pass will entitle diners to a food tasting in each of the participating establishments, all of which are within walking distance of each other. The food crawl, which marks the seasonal opening of Rockaway Taco, will include Elegante Pizza, New Irish Circle, Rockaway Beach Surf Club, Sayra’s Wine Bar, Surfside Bagels, Thai Rock, The Other End Pizza Parlour, The Rock Wine & Beer Bar, Uma’s, and Uncle Louie G Italian Ices & Ice Cream.

Tickets may be purchased from any of the participating businesses.

By Anna Gustafson

Attendees enjoy some of the borough’s best eats at last year’s inaugural Taste of Ridgewood event. Photo courtesy LaKeisha Harris

Fourteen restaurants were apparently not enough to satisfy Ridgewood’s appetite.

LaKeisha Harris, the executive director at the Ridgewood YMCA, said her organization planned on showcasing a total of 18 Queens eateries in this year’s Taste of Ridgewood – a food fest that offers up a smorgasbord of morsels inspired by cuisines from across the globe and which attracts diners from throughout the borough.

The Taste of Ridgewood event showcases some of Queens’ hottest restaurants. Photo courtesy LaKeisha Harris

The Taste of Ridgewood, which was first held last year, was established as an annual tasting event geared towards dishing up some of the best food in the most diverse borough of the city. The Ridgewood YMCA was electric with activity in last year’s first event and Harris said she hoped for a repeat in 2014.

“The idea is to come and share Queens cuisine with a wide audience,” she said. “We are hoping to build on the success of last year and entice some new restaurants to sign on board.”

Harris said the YMCA sifted through the borough’s best restaurants in places like Glendale, Maspeth and even Astoria to pinpoint the most enticing food.  The selections made will run parallel to the group’s theme of diversity for this year’s event, she said. Vendors who sign onto the event get a table free of charge and show off their signature cuisine to the nearly 150 guests who show up.

“We want to show how amazing Queens is and how diverse it has become known to be,” Harris said. “We want our restaurants to speak to that and are purposeful about the kinds of restaurants we bring on. We are really trying to get as many restaurants that hit the diversity of Queens as much as possible.”

But this year will be more than just food, the group said. What is new this year, Harris said, was the event’s goal of partnering with area businesses and offering them a platform to showcase their products or participate in a silent auction.

The group also pegged three honorees for this year’s event as a way to thank some of the Ridgewood community’s most active advocates. The YMCA announced this year’s honorees to include City Councilwoman Elizabeth Crowley (D-Middle Village), Lynn Botfeld of PS 305 and Pastor Michael Durso of the Christ Tabernacle of Glendale.

One of the event’s main goals is to match the borough’s diversity with a wide range of food options. Photo courtesy LaKeisha Harris

Harris said the Taste of Ridgewood was a prime opportunity to thank the community leaders and welcome new faces into the mix.

“Elizabeth Crowley has been a huge advocate for the Y and helped us fund a lot of our teen programs,” Harris said. “We really have been able to expand because of her support. That one was an easy decision for us.”

Harris also added that Botfeld has been “an amazing partner” with the YMCA, never hesitating to help deliver dynamic programming and essential services to some of the borough’s students who go through there.

Last year’s honorees included state Assemblywoman Catherine Nolan (D-Ridgewood) and Community Board 5 Chairman Vincent Arcuri.

One way or the other, Harris said she hoped anyone who attends the event would walk away knowing the YMCA was much more than just a gym, but also a charitable organization. Events such as this one helped propel the organization into different community partnerships in the past, she said, and ultimately help other local business owners in the community.

The 2014 Taste of Ridgewood event is scheduled for Thursday, April 24 from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. at the Ridgewood YMCA at 69-02 64th St.

By Phil Corso

A staple in the community for 65 years, Joe Abbracciamento Restaurant served its final meal last Sunday. Photo courtesy the Rego-Forest Preservation Council

The Abbracciamento family is much bigger today than it was when their restaurant started in Rego Park 65 years ago.

Joe Abbracciamento Restaurant cooked up its final dish over the weekend before the community staple closed its doors for good Sunday. Owner John Abbracciamento said the amount of emotional support was overwhelming at times and left him feeling like everyone was part of the family.

Abbracciamento said it would take a few more days for the reality to hit him, and he expects it will strike him rather hard.

“There were hundreds of people there – even up to that last hour,” he said of the final dinner rush on Sunday. “It got me thinking about all the years we spent there. It hasn’t sunk in yet.”

The owner called the closing weekend a fitting tribute to the institution that became a Rego Park staple over its many years in business. By the time they closed their doors, it was easy to see how emotionally attached Rego Park had become to its beloved Abbracciamento name, the family said.

“People were coming in and crying when they thanked us for all the good years of service,” Abbracciamento said. “It made me feel very proud – very honored – that people thought so much of our family. We always tried to make sure we gave them the best of anything we could and treated them with value and respect. That was just the way we did our business.”

The Joe Abbracciamento Restaurant set up shop at 62-96 Woodhaven Blvd. in 1948 when John’s father, Joe, returned to Queens from serving in World War II. The eatery evolved over decades into a Rego Park mainstay best known for its top-of-the-line Italian dishes.

Over the course of more than six decades, owner Joe Abbracciamento said the restaurant had grown into much more than a restaurant and grew its resume to include serving dishes to some of the borough’s biggest names – including former Vice Presidential candidate and Forest Hills resident Geraldine Ferraro – who left with full stomachs.

The restaurant always remained within the Middle Village-based family from its inception to its end. Joe Abbracciamento and his wife Connie helped establish the eatery and eventually passed it down to their children, Joe, John and John’s wife Marie.

Through every dinner rush and catered event, John said it was the restaurant’s supportive fan base that kept him coming back. It will also be the driving factor in whatever the family’s next move might be, the restaurant owner said.

“I’m a people person; I always have been,” he said. “That will be what motivates me to do something else. Otherwise I will miss everybody tremendously.”

While he was still ultimately unsure of his next move, John Abbracciamento said this might not mean the end for Rego Park’s Italian utopia. He said curious customers would not stop asking him where he was headed next all the way through the final dinner service.

“I don’t know exactly what I’m going to do, as I have said to people,” he said. “There are so many people saying, ‘I know you must have something up your sleeve.’ But for now, we just need to relax a bit because we are all so physically and mentally exhausted.”

Time will tell.

By Phil Corso

Joe Abbracciamento Restaurant on Woodhaven Boulevard in Rego Park will serve its last meal on March 2. Photo by Anna Gustafson

After all, he had spent most of his life enamored by cooking – and just before he launched the eatery at 62-96 Woodhaven Blvd. the master sergeant in the U.S. Army had frequently served up breakfast, lunch and dinner for thousands of military members during the war.

Thus, from a passion for food and cooking, and that which typically accompanies such things – family and never-ending conversations and laughter that makes a stomach hurt – the Joe Abbracciamento Restaurant was born in 1948.

Over the past 65 years, the spot has grown into what residents said can only be described as a cultural landmark in Queens – a place that has attracted high-profile politicians from both sides of the aisle, from Democratic Vice Presidential candidate Geraldine Ferraro to former Republican Mayor Rudy Giuliani, and has been the gathering site for generations of residents celebrating the kind of life milestones that call for heaping plates of food: Engagements, weddings, birthdays.

But, after more than six and a half decades of countless plates of baked clams and fried calamari and chicken parmigiana, the owners said this week that the restaurant will serve its last meal on March 2.

“It’s overwhelming, the outpouring from people,” John Abbraciamento, the founder’s son, said of the patrons who essentially have not stopped calling the restaurant upon finding out that its last day will soon be upon them. “It’s a bittersweet situation – we’ll miss everyone. We’ve been here so long. Hopefully we’ve done a great service for people in the area.”

John Abbraciamento, who, along with his brother Joe and wife Marie, took the reigns of operation from their father and mother, Connie, said it is time for the three of them to “sit back and relax” after the nonstop work that comes from running a restaurant.

“You never know what the future may bring; I just need to relax a little bit,” John Abbraciamento laughed.

Patrons, of course, are crossing their fingers that the family takes, say, a day off and returns, and many have said the news of the closure marks the end of an era for Queens.

Queens Borough President Melinda Katz, who grew up in Forest Hills, called the restaurant a treasured “establishment that has provided generations of Queens residents and visitors from across the country and around the globe with outstanding Italian cuisine.”

“I have been going there since I was a child and have a particular fondness for the family that founded this Queens institution,” Katz said. “The restaurant is also notable for being a popular gathering place for Queens elected officials, including the trailblazing Geraldine Ferraro.”

The new borough president went on to say that she was “very sorry to hear that Abbracciamento’s will be closing, but I wish John, Joe and Marie a happy and healthy retirement and best of luck in all their future endeavors.”

Councilman Eric Ulrich (R-Ozone Park) called the restaurant “a Queens icon” that will be “remembered as one of the best Italian restaurants in the borough.”

“It’s truly sad to see it close after so many wonderful years,” Ulrich continued. “I wish the entire Abbracciamento family good health, happiness and a well-deserved retirement. They will be sorely missed.”

The list of people who heaped praise on the restaurant is an exhaustive one – and certainly not all of which this article could possibly include – and spans the gamut from 112th Community Council President Heidi Harrison Chain to Woodhaven civic leader Ed Wendell and Breezy Point resident Bill Campione.

Chain said the site had “wonderful food and excellent service, whether you went to a party there or went to have dinner.”

“To me, it was always the go-to place for great Italian food,” said Wendell, who grew up in Woodhaven. “You could always count on it for a great meal – those kinds of places are unique.”

Deeming it a “mainstay of the community,” Wendell said, “it’s a shame to see a place that’s been around so long go.”

“As restaurant-goers, we’re very selfish; we want them to stay for another 40 years,” he laughed.

Campione, who held fundraisers for a scholarship in memory of his later mother for years, said the restaurant owners have “been incredibly accommodating, treating us like family.”

“I’ll never find another restaurant that will give us that same experience that Marie, the Abbracciamento family, and their wonderful staff have given us,” Campione said.

And while the Abbracciamentos – who lived most of their lives in Middle Village – are certainly feeling the bitter-sweet pangs of saying goodbye, they also noted that there are years upon years of good memories to draw upon.

“I took a very big pride in our food – I’m the chef; I’ve been cooking here for 40 years,” John Abbraciamento said. “I’ve worked here with my father all the way through until his last day in 1999. I’ve been working here since I was 12. We’ve been in this area of Queens when Queens was Queens.”

By Anna Gustafson

Mozzarella en Carrozza, delicately grilled calamari and baked clams made a prefect trio to begin the meal. Patricia Adams/The Forum Newsgroup

Although it may seem a bit unusual to start a restaurant review out with the next statement, we’re going to do it anyway.

The food at Enzo’s Pizzeria and Restaurant is not good. Yes, you heard me right. The food at Enzo’s is not good .

The food at Enzo’s is great.

Breaking tradition by not making Sunday sauce is in some circles considered almost sinful at Enzo’s it turned into a blessing.

Tucked away in it’s own little niche on Rockaway Boulevard near where it meets Atlantic Avenue, the Italian eatery sits on a triangle it shares with the Colony Car Wash.

We are running it as a Hidden Gem because despite it being in our own backyard, it managed to stay out from under our radar for far too long. I don’t even know exactly when Enzo’s opened–but I am very grateful I know now.

Having no expectations about the ambiance we were pleasantly surprised to find immediate evidence of the detail that was paid to decor. Walls, floors, ceilings and fixtures combine here to make for a very relaxed, comfortable and stylish atmosphere.

The meal began with a trio of appetizers that included mozzarella in carrozza served with a hearty marinara for dipping, grilled calamari and baked clams.

My eye went immediately to what looked like the best looking mozzarella in carrozza I had ever seen. I reached for it first– fearing the competition at the table might be too fierce if it were found to taste as good as it looked. It was. I took two with no hesitation. The petite little fried cheese triangles surpassed so many expectations. A true testament to the perfectly grilled calamari was it required no knife. Making our way through the appetizers, the half dozen baked clams that remained ware the only thing that stood between us and the next course. We put them down quickly.

A presentation that is truly dressed for dinner, Jumbo shrimp rests on a bed of creamy risotto with a hint of garlic and the overtones of fresh parsley.

Next, a platter with three carefully chosen pastas arrived –green and white fettuccine smothered in a delicious bolognese sat next to rigatoni dressed in plump tomatoes and accompanied by baked eggplant, topped with a mound of riccotta and finished with fresh basil. Last but not least, there was black linguine smothered in Arrabiata sauce that was honestly not to be compared.

The pasta was followed by two entrees off the special menu, pork osso bucco and jumbo shrimp Luciano, piled on a tower of creamy risotto, not overshadowed by just the right touch of garlic and freshly chopped parsley.

(I sincerely hope you’re not reading this in the middle of the night because that would mean the restaurant is closed, and right now–you’re hungry).

Although owners Frank and Francesca call their place Enzo’s Pizzeria Restaurant–this ‘aint no pizza joint.

Bottom line on this place is if you don’t live nearby, travel. If you’re one of those people who won’t eat a meatball out, have no fear. If you were raised to think it’s sinful not to make sauce on Sunday for your family–your salvation is to bring them here. Your choice of pasta with Enzo’s signature Sunday Sauce–meatballs, ribs, bracciole and sausage all included.

Honestly, enough cannot be said about this place. The quality of the ingredients, the culinary skill of Chef Luciano, the family atmosphere, the great service and unbelievable prices are all in addition to some of the best Italian food we have eaten.

We really could have saved ink and done a one word review about Enzo’s––

Mangia!

Winter Fruit-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Winter Fruit-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin
Serves 8

Ingredients

1/2 cup dried apricots

1/2 cup dried cherries

1/2 cup dried figs

2 pork tenderloins (about 3 pounds total)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup honey, preferably sourwood honey

Directions

1. Mince the apricots, cherries and figs by hand or in a food processor.

2. Slice the tenderloins lengthwise, almost all the way through. Open them up and lay them flat. Place each tenderloin on a large piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and pound each piece of meat with a meat tenderizer until it is about 1/2-inch thick. Remove the top piece of plastic.

3. Season the surface of the pork with the salt and pepper. Divide the fruit mixture in half and spread evenly on the cut surface of each tenderloin. Top each with half of the cheese. Roll up each tenderloin, using the bottom piece of plastic to help you, tucking in the fruit and cheese as you go. Tie kitchen string every 2 inches around the tenderloins, continuing to push in any fruit or cheese that may fall out.

4. Preheat the oven to 450 F.

5. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tied tenderloins, turning as each side is browned. Be careful when searing the open side, as some fruit and cheese might fall out. You are just trying to seal in the meat juices, not trying to cook the pork all the way through.

6. Combine the butter and honey in a microwaveable bowl and microwave on high for about 20 seconds, or until the butter is melted. Drizzle the butter over the tenderloins.

7. Place the tenderloins on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 150 F. Remove the baking sheet and allow the tenderloins to sit for at least 10 minutes before slicing. This will keep the juices in the meat rather than all over your kitchen counter.

8. Snip off and discard the strings. Slice the pork into 1-inch-thick pieces and serve.

Shake Shack, part of the celebrated restaurateur Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, was selected by a panel of industry experts who assessed a record number of entries from airports and railway stations around the globe.

Shake Shack’s location in the newly expanded Terminal 4 on Delta’s B Concourse is operated in partnership with SSP America and is the restaurant’s first location in a U.S. airport. Terminal 4 is home to 30 international and domestic airlines and boasts an annual passenger volume approaching 15 million people.

“We’re thrilled to bring the experience of Shake Shack to JFK,” Shake Shack CEO Randy Garutti said in a prepared statement about the award, which was presented at a ceremony held in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. “Together with SSP America, we’re working to change the paradigm on what travelers should expect from airport dining.”

Shake Shack describes itself as a modern day “roadside” burger stand that sells burgers, flat-top dogs, frozen custard, beer, wine, and more.

“We are extremely proud of our partnerships with Shake Shack and JFKIAT and are honored to share this truly prestigious award with them,” SSP America’s President and CEO Les Cappetta said in a prepared statement.

JFKIAT LLC leases and operates Terminal 4 at JFK in a public-private partnership with the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey. JFKIAT is the only private, non-airline company to operate a terminal at JFK.

Musicians entertain hundreds of residents who stopped by the kick-off of Queens Restaurant Week outside Borough Hall on Monday. Anna Gustafson/The Forum Newsgroup

Lining up for everything from a locally brewed beer to Indian food and pollo al funghi – chicken with mushrooms for those not versed in Italian cuisine – people from all corners of the borough kicked off the annual Queens Restaurant Week at Borough Hall on Monday.

Nelson Rockefeller, owner of the Queens Brewery, poured countless cups of his Queens Lager.

The seventh annual event, which will run from Sept. 30 through Oct. 3 and again on Oct. 7 to Oct. 10, features cuisines as diverse as Queens’ residents, including an Italian restaurant in Ozone Park, a Turkish joint in Richmond Hill and an Argentinian spot in Forest Hills. More than 50 restaurants, from Bayside to Howard Beach, are participating.

“Queens Restaurant Week allows diners to enjoy some of the tastiest dishes from around the world without having to spend a lot or travel very far,” Borough President Helen Marshall said at the week’s kick-off event held outside Borough Hall on Monday afternoon, when more than 500 passersby got to taste samples from the participating eateries. “Each year this event is a fabulous celebration of the wide variety of dining experiences available in what is the most diverse county in America. I hope as many people as possible take advantage of Queens Restaurant Week and partake of our borough’s outstanding cuisine.”

Most spots will offer one three-course, prix fixe dinner for $28 and lunch for $14. Some establishments will also offer their specials beyond Oct. 10.

“With our diversity, there’s such great food in Queens and we want to promote that,” said Queens Economic Development Corporation Executive Director Seth Bornstein.

Patty Medina, owner of Uncle Peter’s, an Italian restaurant on 84th Street and Northern Boulevard in Jackson Heights, served up plates of pollo al funghi.

On Monday, seven restaurants showed off their culinary goods, including the Long Island City-based Queens Brewery, Uncle Peter’s in Jackson Heights and Haveli Restaurant in Forest Hills.

“Doing Queens Restaurant Week definitely helps us because we’re building stronger relationships with the restaurants we already collaborate with,” said Nelson Rockefeller, owner of the Queens Brewery – which opened this past July and now has its beer featured in 42 spots across the borough.

Pardeep Kumar, who works at Haveli Restaurant, served chicken malai kabab to a long line of people on Monday.

“This event helps us to let people know they have good Indian food right next door,” Kumar said.

The week is a program of the Queens Tourism Council and is sponsored by the Melrose Credit Union, jetBlue Airways, Queens Brewery, and Resorts World Casino New York City, among others.

“We realize and understand that the restaurant industry is part of the fabric of the mosaic that is Queens and NYC,” said Melrose Credit Union Director of Marketing and Public Affairs Robert Nemeroff. “It is the foods of the many different cultures and ethnicities that create the common bonds between all New Yorkers. Food is one of the things that makes Queens the unique and wonderful place that it is, and Restaurant Week exemplified that thought.”

For more information, and to find a list of participating restaurants, visit www.itsinqueens.com/restaurantweek/Queens.

By Anna Gustafson

Try loading a shelf in the fridge, preferably a low one with easy access to kids, with a five-day supply of healthy choice snacks for after school. If you leave it right there, kids don’t have to search or call you at the office to lodge a hunger complaint.

Here are some suggestions for the “snack shelf.”

• Ants on a log (celery sticks filled with peanut butter topped with raisins)
• Carrot sticks, with ranch dip in a small Tupperware container,
• Edamame
• Bags of apple slices
• Melon wedges
• Grapes
• Blueberries
• String cheese
• Mini low fat yogurts
• Dried peaches
• Individual bags of raisins or dried cranberries
• Individual bags of trail mix

These snacks require a little more effort—ok so you have to cook some of them, but you can make some of these ahead and pack them up to go in the lunch box!

We’re sure they will bring on smiles and definitely encourage some food trading to take place among friends.

WARNING! Do not make these snacks if you don’t want other kids lining up at your front door!

Fruit Kebobs
This is definitely one way to make sure the little guys get the fruit they need and that they learn about the different types of sugars in their diets. Assemble chunks of their favorites on water-soaked skewers (to prevent splintering) and serve with the fruit dip.

Fruit Dip Mix
1-cup low-fat sour cream and 2 tablespoons each brown sugar and lime juice; sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Thread fruit onto skewers; serve with the fruit kebobs.

Cheesy Chex Mix
Toss 3 cups Chex cereal, 2 cups mini pretzels and 1 cup cheese crackers with 3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese, 1/2 stick melted butter and a pinch of garlic powder. Spread on a baking sheet and bake 15 minutes at 325 degrees Fº, stirring. Bag these up in individual baggies after cooling down.

Ham Pinwheels
Spread scallion cream cheese on a sun-dried-tomato tortilla and top with thinly sliced ham. Roll up the tortilla and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
Send these on a cool day or leave them home for after school in the fridge. They’re a big favorite—you can also substitute, turkey, chicken or roast beef.

Nutty Pretzel Wands
Spread peanut butter on the top few inches of pretzel rods. Roll in chopped peanuts and/or dried fruit.
Easy to send off to school, these give a little salt and a little sweet.

Apple Moons
Slice an apple into crescents. Spread with peanut or almond butter and press granola on top.
These will not get turned down. Kids love the textures and taste of this healthy combination.

Chicken and Waffles
Mix chicken salad with some sliced grapes and chopped walnuts. Spoon onto toasted mini whole-wheat waffles.
Who says you have to go to IHOP? You can create this treat and send your student off with a big smile.

Grilled Cheese Marinara

If there’s one thing we know after reading through about 1,500 snacks it’s this—KIDS LOVE SAUCE AND CHEESE!

We guarantee they’ll love this version:

Preparation Time: 20 Mins.
Total Time to Serve: 25 Mins.
Servings: 12

INGREDIENTS

6 oz. mozzarella, Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese
1 ½ tsp. dried Italian seasoning
30 Keebler Town House Original crackers (crushed to 1 cup)
¼ tsp. coarsely ground pepper
2 eggs
24 Keebler Town House Original crackers
½ cup marinara sauce

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat grill. Place heavy-duty foil on grill rack.
   2. Cut cheese into twenty-four little sticks. In a shallow dish combine cracker crumbs, Italian seasoning and pepper. In another shallow dish slightly beat eggs.
   3. Line baking sheet with wax paper. Dip cheese pieces in egg. Roll in crumb mixture. Place on prepared baking sheet.
   4. Place cheese pieces on foil-covered grill rack. Cover and grill over medium heat for 2 to 4 minutes or until cheese melts, turning once. Serve with whole crackers and marinara sauce.
   NOTE: To cook cheese sticks in skillet, lightly brush heavy skillet with olive oil. In skillet cook cheese pieces, a few at a time, over medium heat for 2 to 4 minutes or until browned, turning once.

For many of the city’s 24,000 restaurateurs, it’s too little, too late. And for one group of 40 Bronx restaurant owners, whose attorney Neil Grimaldi filed a $150 million dollar lawsuit against the DoH a little over two months ago, it’s a consolation that matters very little.

In addition to their contentions about unfair fines and oppressive inspectors, the group of plaintiffs claim the fines are unconstitutional because the mayor did not go through the City Council in order to enact the system – instead they say he “slid it through the back door,” using administrative fiat to push it through.

And while the lawsuit only includes affected parties from the Bronx, the problem is one that has inspired outcries and outrage throughout the city. And although their locations may differ along with the food they offer, the complaints restaurant owners and managers share are all alike.

Owners maintain that one of the greatest problems is the inconsistency of the rules and the way inspectors represent them. Court papers filed revealed examples of disparity in procedure and other inconsistencies that give unreasonable flexibility to interpretation.

But perhaps the most grievous of the complaints is that so many of the violations are given for issues that do not relate to the food being served – the widespread theory that has everyone in the food business running for cover, hoping to escape the hatchet.

This week we have taken a look at the restaurants in our readership area and how they stack up against each other and the rest of the borough. And despite the protestations of restaurant owners and others in the business, over fines, consumers can feel at ease when eating at the majority of establishments. Just about 75% of eateries in our area proudly display one of the coveted A’s while an astonishingly low 2% of establishments have been given C’s.

And contrary to the opinions of those on the receiving end of the fines, the city says the proof is in the proverbial pudding as to whether or not the system is working. Statistics show an increase in roughly 20% in the number of A’s given since the inception of the system in 2010.

For those who wish to find more specific information on a particular restaurant, visit the Department of health and mental Hygiene at http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/home/home.shtml. There you can find information about every restaurant’s grade and violation history in the city. The search can be performed in a number of different ways including restaurant name, cuisine served, neighborhood etc.

By Patricia Adams 

Esam “performs” the menu for a group of perplexed diners—making choices at Mombar can be difficult. It’s probably best to go in a larger group and get a good mix of the menu.

But alas, there it was – four blocks away, barely big enough to accommodate the car – a spot. As we walked to Mombar, I wondered again: What could be worth that experience? I was soon to find out.

Esam was the first person we encountered at the small, dimly lit space in the middle of bustling Astoria. “Good evening,” he said with a warm and welcoming, yet mischievous tone. We were escorted to a table along the wall and not sure upon entering if this were a restaurant or an art gallery.

Stepping through the door was like stepping out of time and into a different world. A banquet up against the back wall played host to a bench of embroidered pillows atop a fabric seat. On the walls hung artifacts from Middle Eastern/Egyptian culture along with an eclectic mix of oddly ‘American’ items: a Coca-Cola bottle and old signs advertising products. On the outside wall hangs the letters to spell out the restaurant’s name and big eyes. I wondered if the eyes had blinked every time they watched our vehicle drive by in search of the elusive parking spot.

On the floor an array of mosaic tiles held your attention until your eyes could wander up to the stained glass windows. We later learned that all of the artistic creations were those of Moustafa El Sayed – the resident artist who also serves as the chef and owner of Mombar.

Grilled artichoke salad was served warmed and blended exquisitely with grilled tomatoes and onions in Egyptian spice and delicate oil.

There’s a menu, but it’s basically not necessary – part of the Mombar mystique is the reciting of the menu by Esam. It’s like a performance really. His descriptions, infused with colorful narrative, are laced with Egyptian culture, lore and food traditions. He listens carefully to questions and makes your dinner choices accordingly.

On the list is an assortment of organ food – brains, liver, kidney, tripe. For the faint at heart (bad pun here), there are some more recognizable dishes that will tantalize and thrill the most discerning of palates or the foodie novice. If you like flavor, Mombar is your spot.

Settling on choices can be difficult so be prepared not to know which of the specials to choose. There is lamb, chicken, sausage and fish and of course, vegetarian dishes. We started out with a plate of warmed phyllo accompanied by a sesame seed dipping oil. For appetizers we chose a warm, fire roasted beet salad with apples and sweet onion and also a grilled artichoke salad roasted with onion and spices.

Stepping out in the realm of slightly daring, we also chose the lamb cheek, which was a plate of seasoned and ground lamb meat stirred together with a raw egg just before it was finished cooking. The dish arrives piping hot with a Naan-like bread served to the side. In a small dish that tags along,a green sauce is placed on the table with words of caution from Esam, “some people find it hot.” In actuality, for lovers of lamb, this dish is an absolute must and for those who avoid lamb, it too is a must. The texture and flavors packed into this treat are not to be missed.

Chef Moustafa can smile about the wonderful food as well as artistic talent he brings to the restaurant. Most guests agree they could be convinced they were eating at his home.

For the entrée part of our dinner we ordered the salmon special – a base of phyllo crust on top of which sits a salmon filet surrounded by fresh peppers, onions, tomatoes, capers and other vegetables. Then, another layer of phyllo is placed over the fish and baked until golden. The result is a deliciously seasoned, perfectly baked fish and tender vegetables that release their juices into the crust.

The second entrée we chose was fish tagine, an incredible blend of tilapia filet smothered in vegetables including eggplant, tomatoes and olives, that shows off the restaurant’s signature centerpiece – Egyptian clay-pot cooking. The dish is served with a pyramid of perfumed couscous and can be prepared with chicken or lamb as well.

To round out our trio of dinners we ordered the rabbit and rice – not for everyone – but something that arrived perfectly prepared without a hint of gaminess in the taste.

After placing the order, it was suggested by Esam that some spirits were in order to compliment our selection. Wine we were told could be purchased at the liquor store down the street – I had forgotten it was BYOBand so I was chosen to make the trek for a bottle of cabernet.

The chef’s surprise dessert was a masterful creation balancing sugar, spice, fruit and cream to perfection.

Defining the dessert at Mombar is a short and sweet task. It is GOOD. You can choose from a variety of baklava type confections or you can decide to go with the chef’s surprise of the day. We had Egyptian bread pudding which was a delightful blend of creamy egg custard filling the spaces between honey soaked bread cubes topped with cream and nuts – need we say more? Of course, with an increasing admiration growing for chef Moustafa’s creations, we had to have the chef’s surprise. The only thing that wasn’t a surprise was how good it was. A whole sweet pear, wrapped in phyllo dough and then cracked open and filled with honey soaked bananas and blueberries shrouded in a soured cream. And by the way, don’t forget to have the mint tea.

The experience at Mombar is not just one about eating. It’s one about eating at the heart of what makes Queens the absolute place to experience the food of every culture that makes up the most diverse borough anywhere.

There is only one bad thing about Mombar and it has nothing to do with the food. It is what seems to be an impossible parking situation. We have no advice as to how to avoid it but public transportation almost seems appealing. You can secure parking a few blocks away and that is what we advise so that you don’t waste your time circling endlessly. And the best part about it is that your walk back to the car is filled with the streets that seem to have rolled out while you were eating and are now packed with a colorful Egyptian community, smoking hookah on every inch of the street while nibbling on the delicacies of their homeland.

Mombar serves the culinary concoctions of an artist as well as offering one of the most unique dining experiences you will find. To go there is to be well fed and charmed by both the chef and a small staff that makes everyone feel like their meal is the most important thing on earth. Well maybe not on earth. Really, the best way to define Mombar is to say it’s something out of this world.

Mombar 
2522 Steinway Street
Astoria, NY 11103
Tues-Sun: 5pm-10:30pm
(718) 726-2356

By Patricia Adams

Nestled onto a quiet street in the primarily residential Corona is Tortilleria Nixtimal.

Although it doesn’t have the fancy cake slice appearance, this tresleches is something you need to eat at Nixtimal. The white marshmallow like frosting is a perfect topping for the luxuriously rich cake beneath it.

One of the co-owners, Fernando Ruiz says he decided to open the restaurant because as a child, he and his family would cross the border into Mexico to get the tacos he says tasted “so much better than anywhere else.” He decided the problem with all other tacos began in the same place – with the tortilla.

The crown jewels of Nixtimal, the white corn tortillas, between 3 and 6 thousand of them every day, are delivered to restaurants throughout New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. Hey, if you think it’s starting to sound like you’d be eating in the middle of a tortilla factory, you’re correct – Tortilleria Nixtimal is just that.

When colorful, neatly arranged plates appear before you, your mind automatically wanders to familiar memories. I too, remember the offerings in open-air stalls in Mexico; piles of peeled avocados awaiting their debut – and very short-lived performances – as the crown on a stack of perfectly charred, shaved beef, cilantro, diced tomato, jalapeños, and onion. Yes – the AUTHENTIC taco – the small, generally inexpensive perfect combination of meat, vegetable, herb and or fruit, all sitting in the fold of a warm corn tortilla. The real deal.

And oh yes, Tortilleria Nixtimal is the real deal. It’s decidedly small, colorful dining room doesn’t house many tables but service is quick and turnover is pretty fast. The menu includes tacos with pork, steak, chicken, shrimp and fish, quesadillas, and tamales as well as soups and salads. For dessert, we would like to have seen a little more flavor from the flan but thetresleches cake oozed delicious milk every time the fork got near it.

Part of the impressive line-up of tacos: the Cameron features cubes of gently sautéed mango on top of seasoned, grilled shrimp. Next up is homemade chorizo sausage topped with cilantro, rich plump tomato and cheese. And finally the carnitas—among the best we have ever had—an ample portion of slow cooked pork with the traditional accompaniments. Honestly it does not take a Mexican aficionado to recognize that this particular taco is one of the hallmarks of Mexican cuisine and thesecarnitas could hold up against any challenges.

As far as the tacos, for the sake of our readership of course, we were forced to try every one of them. The carnitas, filled with slow-cooked pork that was marinated overnight in orange juice, sweetened condensed milk, oregano, cilantro – and some secret things they won’t tell you – were absolutely delicious. The other varieties: chicken, steak and shrimp did not leave anything to be desired – they were excellent, very flavorful and undeniably made with extremely fresh ingredients.

Straying from just tacos – which we highly recommend here – you would be going in the right direction especially if you were to order the specialty platter featuring the sincronizada. This layered, grilled delight starts out with a tortilla base, then a layer of beans, Mexican string cheese, a second tortilla topped with shredded chicken that is tossed in oil and vinegar, peppers, roasted jalapeños, carrots, onion and then a third tortilla. The whole thing is then placed on the grill to meld all the flavors and melt the cheese. The result is a stunning burst of flavor and texture that is absolutely fantastic. You can also try the shrimp or steak version. Both arrived at the table next to ours and judging from what was left on the plates after about four minutes, I’d have to say they were at least as great as our chicken choice.

Another noteworthy part of the Nixtimal experience is the staff. Really, really great would be the best description but if we had to offer a little testimony in support it would be that from the minute you walk in, you feel welcomed. We were travelling with granddaughter in tow and they immediately assumed the task of entertaining a two-year-old as part of serving the meal. She was thoroughly delighted with them and after she finished eating they wondered whether or not she was actually a twenty-year-old in the body of a toddler. You know children can be a very reliable meter when it comes to taste and texture and if Gigi were writing this review she could do it in one word…“more.”

Bottom line is that although foodies are used to flocking to Manhattan in search of “the best whatever,” Corona is home to some of the best Mexican food in the entire city.

While we do encourage you to do some of your own explorations and assure you there are other restaurants in Corona worthy of praise, Nixtimal is somewhere that everyone should go to – it is a place that sets the bar of what should be expected when eating authentic Mexican food. In a word – wait we need two to describe Tortilleria Nixtimall – Muy bueno!

 TortilleriaNixtimal
104-05 47th Avenue
(between 104th and 108th Street)
Corona, NY 11368
Monday-Wednesday 11am-6pm
Thursday and Sunday 11am-9pm
Friday and Saturday 11am-11pm
Tel: 718-699-2434 

Story and Photos by Patricia Adams 

We are happy to share our experiences with you and if you know of a place that you think should be featured in this category, please let us know about it at forumsouth@gmail.com. Thanks and enjoy!

Ekmek is a virtually indescribable dessert creation that’s meant to be eaten at least ten times before you die.

If a dessert can really be perfect, then we have found it. If you can pronounce it, that’s great – all that really matters is that you can eat it. Ekmek Katafi begins atop a pile of shredded phyllo dough that has been soaked in rich, dark, honey syrup then laden with a silky vanilla custard – the perfection that we speak of, builds from there. Freshly whipped cream (this stuff has never seen a can), cinnamon, roasted almonds and pistachio nuts finish off this combination which we heartily suggest you don’t share – better you should take it home with you for tomorrow.

The amazing thing is that this divine dessert is not alone in the spotlight. It is just a part of the line-up of additional dessertsand dinners all housed under one roof: Lucky Boy’s in Lawrence.

This restaurant is just about as unassuming as it gets. The dining room may not measure up to huge square footage, but there is nothing about this establishment that should ever be called small.

Lucky Boy’s has achieved what many who describe themselves as “cozy,” have tried to achieve. Here it exists. From the minute you walk through the door you feel as though you are coming home for dinner.

A pile of steaming fish–mussels, razor clams, calamari, St. Peter’s fish and shrimp–in a rich tomato broth sits over angel hair pasta and is crowned with a golden fried soft shell crab.

Expect most of the dining room to look up from their tables as you enter the room – don’t worry, they mean no harm, they’re just checking to see if they know you. Then they smile and go back to eating. The other expectation is that you will be greeted by owners, Jack and Nelson, and the rest of the staff as they quickly scan the room to see where they will fit you. One thing is for sure – when you walk into Lucky Boy’s you can count on being very comfortable.

This is a place where patrons get up from their seats in the middle of dinner to hug and kiss other patrons on their way in or out. I noticed it the first time I ate here – eight years ago. I remember thinking, ‘I guess a lot of people who know each other are out tonight’ and dismissing it. That was dozens and dozens of delightful, delectable, delicious dinners ago. Now, all this time later, I too rise to my feet when I see someone I know going out or coming in.

And now that I’ve finished ranting, let’s get to the food. An eclectic blend of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and magicmakes up the menu which arrives on laminated pages and offers up dishes featuring steak, chicken, salmon, shrimp, lamb and pork. They offer great gyro and souvlaki – the Tzatziki and pita that accompany are as good as the dish itself. Sausage here, along with most everything else is hand/homemade.

A quick glance around the room alerts you to the presence of chalkboards hung at vantage points – that’s the daily special line-up and at Lucky Boy’s they have every right to call these dishes special. Because they are – each and every one of them. We have decided not to do ameal by meal review here because the honest truth is we would have no idea what to choose. They are ALL equally as good.

A bustling dining room where everyone feels like they are home, with a rather large family, for a great home cooked meal.

Soft shell crabs, lamb kebobs, chicken meatballs over zucchini pasta, herbed salmon over angel hair, mousakka, grilled whole fish – bronzino and brooktrout among them – prepared blackened, herbed or whatever Jack comes up with. All dinners are served with what appears to be the biggest salad, either Greek or Caesar, you’ve ever been served with and hot bread – made right there. From appetizers to dessert, there are so many choices that it’s almost impossible that everyone of them would be reliably great. But they are.

The dessert lineup we mentioned earlier includes their signature coconut cream pie as well as other creams – chocolate and banana – a fresh berry tart, black and white cake, baklava, each one better than the last.

To sum up Lucky Boy’s is to say that the freshest and finest quality of ingredients are used in all the cooking, which is done right out in the open. This place is a masterful blend of cooking, congeniality, cleanliness and courtesy that will keep you coming back.

This is one Hidden Gem you’ll want to make tracks to. And as quickly as possible. It’s conveniently located across the street from Costco Wholesale Club on Rockaway Turnpike in the Five Towns area. Parking is a little bit tricky – but there’s a lot in the back and some space on the side of the restaurant in the front if you want to navigate a curb with no cut. Just remember not to park in the Gold Store’s lot across the street – if you do, you can go back into Lucky Boy’s and get another dessert while you wait for the tow truck to bring your car back.

 Lucky Boy’s
636 Rockaway Turnpike
Lawrence, NY 11559
Open Monday-Saturday
11:30 A.M-8:30 P.M.
Tel: (516) 239-9352
(516) 239-9634

Story and Photos by Patricia Adams