The chili garlic fried shrimp appetizer at Nanking is delicious as a starter or a meal. Forum Photo by Eugénie Bisulco.
You can’t really call Rockaway Boulevard at 134th Street the fine dining center of the universe. There’s not much more there than a vegetarian take-out place, a liquor store, and a few other vestiges of a bygone boulevard.
Nanking, from the exterior, is no great shakes. You could drive by the storefront a hundred times and not notice the brightly lit red sign, and that’s probably because you wouldn’t expect to see a cute little Asian fusion restaurant on that block. But once inside, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. The walls are deep red, and there are just enough decorative bamboo poles and paper lamps to add authenticity without tackiness. It’s a clean, warm atmosphere that’s not usually crowded. The staff is efficient and attentive. There’s a quaint bar at the back and a selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass. The cocktail menu contains a number of “mocktails,” and the tasty “South Ozone Park Comfort,” a gin, peach liqueur, and orange juice concoction reminiscent enough of fuzzy navels without the cloyingly sweet taste and troubling college drinking memories.
The food is really the star at Nanking, though the menu (as is the case with many fusion places) can be overwhelming – with a plentitude of Indian, Thai, and Chinese dishes to choose from, two separate appetizer menus, and several authentic tandoori offerings. The best of those are the chicken tikka and the chicken tandoori, both marinated in yogurt and spices and served with delicious dipping sauces. For those who prefer Chinese cuisine, try the lobster, sautéed with vegetables and your choice of Chinese sauces. The chili shrimp entrée contains large shrimp, peppers, and onions in a spicy sauce. The chili garlic fried shrimp appetizer would make a nice meal for someone looking to eat light, as it comes with five or six shrimp and is one of the most consistently prepared and delectable things on the menu. For a fried dish, it’s not heavy or greasy. Standouts from the Thai menu include basil ginger chicken and Thai shrimp curry – but, without exaggeration, everything is good.
Nanking isn’t perfect. Substitutions are frowned upon, almost literally, except for the ones that happen as a result of their [rare] mistakes, i.e. “very spicy” might be interpreted as “not spicy at all,” and “shrimp” might end up as “chicken.” The water glasses are occasionally a bit soapy, which at least means that they are clean. The staff, however, do make every effort to correct their errors.
Nanking is open seven days a week and offers free delivery in South Ozone Park and catering for all occasions. It is located at 134-07 Rockaway Boulevard.
By Eugénie Bisulco
