Mozzarella en Carrozza, delicately grilled calamari and baked clams made a prefect trio to begin the meal. Patricia Adams/The Forum Newsgroup
Although it may seem a bit unusual to start a restaurant review out with the next statement, we’re going to do it anyway.
The food at Enzo’s Pizzeria and Restaurant is not good. Yes, you heard me right. The food at Enzo’s is not good .
The food at Enzo’s is great.
Breaking tradition by not making Sunday sauce is in some circles considered almost sinful at Enzo’s it turned into a blessing.
Tucked away in it’s own little niche on Rockaway Boulevard near where it meets Atlantic Avenue, the Italian eatery sits on a triangle it shares with the Colony Car Wash.
We are running it as a Hidden Gem because despite it being in our own backyard, it managed to stay out from under our radar for far too long. I don’t even know exactly when Enzo’s opened–but I am very grateful I know now.
Having no expectations about the ambiance we were pleasantly surprised to find immediate evidence of the detail that was paid to decor. Walls, floors, ceilings and fixtures combine here to make for a very relaxed, comfortable and stylish atmosphere.
The meal began with a trio of appetizers that included mozzarella in carrozza served with a hearty marinara for dipping, grilled calamari and baked clams.
My eye went immediately to what looked like the best looking mozzarella in carrozza I had ever seen. I reached for it first– fearing the competition at the table might be too fierce if it were found to taste as good as it looked. It was. I took two with no hesitation. The petite little fried cheese triangles surpassed so many expectations. A true testament to the perfectly grilled calamari was it required no knife. Making our way through the appetizers, the half dozen baked clams that remained ware the only thing that stood between us and the next course. We put them down quickly.
A presentation that is truly dressed for dinner, Jumbo shrimp rests on a bed of creamy risotto with a hint of garlic and the overtones of fresh parsley.
Next, a platter with three carefully chosen pastas arrived –green and white fettuccine smothered in a delicious bolognese sat next to rigatoni dressed in plump tomatoes and accompanied by baked eggplant, topped with a mound of riccotta and finished with fresh basil. Last but not least, there was black linguine smothered in Arrabiata sauce that was honestly not to be compared.
The pasta was followed by two entrees off the special menu, pork osso bucco and jumbo shrimp Luciano, piled on a tower of creamy risotto, not overshadowed by just the right touch of garlic and freshly chopped parsley.
(I sincerely hope you’re not reading this in the middle of the night because that would mean the restaurant is closed, and right now–you’re hungry).
Although owners Frank and Francesca call their place Enzo’s Pizzeria Restaurant–this ‘aint no pizza joint.
Bottom line on this place is if you don’t live nearby, travel. If you’re one of those people who won’t eat a meatball out, have no fear. If you were raised to think it’s sinful not to make sauce on Sunday for your family–your salvation is to bring them here. Your choice of pasta with Enzo’s signature Sunday Sauce–meatballs, ribs, bracciole and sausage all included.
Honestly, enough cannot be said about this place. The quality of the ingredients, the culinary skill of Chef Luciano, the family atmosphere, the great service and unbelievable prices are all in addition to some of the best Italian food we have eaten.
We really could have saved ink and done a one word review about Enzo’s––
Mangia!
